Turret Ridge (5.9, 7 pitches)

This season, try something new.  Turret Ridge has the reputaion as “Colorado’s hardest 12er,” With very little information aviabale online or in print, this is a textbook climb to hire a guide for.  Come experience the 5.9 chimney and 5.6 Lichen Traverse with one of the AMGA Certified Alpine Guides at KMG.   The supposed “first ascent” was done in 1991.  The party climbed their way up the seven pitches only to find a small register containing the names of 3 members of the Iowa Mountaineers who had been the actual first ascent party in 1979.*  To this day Turret Ridge sees only a handful of ascents from Colorado’s most involved peak-baggers.  Add your name to that list!

Chimney Rock (5.7, 3 pitches)

Standing above Ridgeway, CO. Chimney Rock is eye catching to anyone, especially a climber. It includes three to four pitches of climbing up to 5.7.  From low fifth class to chockstone navigation, this alpine spire has an adventure for all.  Come let one of the AMGA Certified Alpine Guides at KMG show you this spectacular summit.

Price Includes

  • AMGA Certified Alpine Guide or AMGA Certified Rock Guide  (depending on program)
  • Group climbing equipment (ropes, harnesses, all other technical climbing equipment, climbing shoes, first aid kits)

Price Does Not Include

  • Travel to Owl Creek Pass and Turret Ridge/ Chimney Rock trailheads from your location.  All private trips are required to provide their own transportation.
  • 5% federal land use surcharge
  • Items of personal nature
  • Individual travel costs, delays, etc.
  • Excess baggage fees
  • Personal clothing or gear
  • Personal snacks
  • Hotels before and after trip
  • Recommended Travel/trip cancelation insurance.
  • Guide/ Staff gratuity

Clothing

  • Climbing Shoes: Comfortable rock climbing.  You do not want to climb these in your tight bouldering / sport climbing shoes.
  • Softshell Climbing Pants: The Patagonia Alpine Guide Pants  work well. You will be wearing these everyday while on the mountain. Regardless of the brand they should be non-insulated Schoeller-type fabric.
  • Wicking t-shirt: Synthetic wicking t-shirt.
  • Softshell Jacket: Like the softshell bottoms, this is your go-to jacket that will be worn the most. The Outdoor Research Alibi jacket is what we’re wearing this season.
  • Sun Glasses: These should be good dark sunglasses. The Smith Guide’s Choice are great.

Climbing Equipment

  • Harness: A comfortable mountaineering harness that will fit over all your layers. The Camp Flash Alpine is our current alpine harness of choice. It is both light weight and will fit under your pack belt. In addition, the diaper style harness will allow you to put it on and take it off with large boots or crampons on.
  • Locking Carabiners: 2 locking carabiners. The Camp HMS Nitro is an extremely light weight and versatile locking carabiner. (extra credit if you know what HMS stands for….) The Camp Photon Screw Gate screw gate is an other extremely light weight locker.
  • Non-locking carabiners: 2 non-locking carabiners. We recently fell in love with and recommend the Camp Photon Wire Gate. This is an extremely light weight and large opening carabiner.
  • Climbing Helmet: Must be CE certified and designed for climbing. Check out the Camp Speed or Camp Storm are both for a very comfortable and light weight option. You will be wearing this helmet a lot, so you want it to be both comfortable and fit well under your jacket hood.
  • Trekking poles: Three section ski poles such as the Leki Tour Stick Vario packs down extremely small. This is paramount for when we are climbing the ice pitches on the upper mountain.
  • Nylon runner: This needs to be a 48 inch nylon runner.
  • Belay Device: Tube style belay device. We like the Camp PIU 2

Prerequisites

  • Climbers should be in great physical condition.
  • There are dozens of alpine climbs with different difficulties in the Black. Please get in touch with us to talk about what climb is right for you. If need be, we would like to climb with you prior to climbing in the Black to help ensure that you are up to the challenge
  • If you do not possess these skills or need review, we recommend doing a skills course with us in Colorado or Utah prior to your alpine trip to Silverton, CO.

Itinerary

  • These climbs are both single full day climbs.  You will meet your guide at the trailhead the evening prior and camp.  Camping logistics and food are not including in this price.

Registration & Cancelation

  • Unfortunately, due to extremely high demand we have a very strict registration and cancelation policy. We can not transfer you to an other program. WE HIGHLY RECOMMEND PURCHASING TRAVEL INSURANCE! We recommend the TravelEx Insurance Travel Select plan with the Adventurer Plus Pak upgrade.
  • To reserve your spot on a 50% deposit if applying more than 60 days out. If your trip/ course starts in less than 60 days please submit full payment.
  • Program fees are non-transferable.
    If notice of cancellation is given in writing at least 60 days prior to the trip start date, you will be refunded your fulldeposit except for a $50 processing fee.
  • If notice of cancellation is given in writing within 59 – 30 days prior to the trip start date, a cancellation fee equal to the deposit amount will be charged. If notice of cancellation is given in writing less than 30 days prior to the trip start date, a cancellation fee equal to 100% of the program fee will be charged.

Dates

Private dates available upon request

Duration

Full day

Location

Turret Ridge & Chimney Rock, San Juan Mountains, CO

Client to Guide Ratio

up to 2:1 climber to guide ratio

Difficulty

intermediate to advanced