American Mountain Guides Association

Single Pitch Instructor Course

This course is designed for folks that either work and climb in a single pitch setting.  It is the only nationally and internationally recognized single pitch climbing instructor certification program.  In 2009 the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Program was recognized for meeting the “training standards” of the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) and was granted the prestigious title of “Approved Association.” This program is recognized by many land managers, insurance companies, other associations and of course the general public. The AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Program has been created to fit in the AMGA Rock Discipline training program.  This course is taught by an AMGA Certified Rock Guide.


Price Includes

  • AMGA Certified Rock Guide and SPI Program Provider as your lead instructor

Price Does Not Include

  • Travel to the course/ exam site form your location
  • 5% federal land use surcharge
  • Items of personal nature
  • Individual travel costs, delays, etc.
  • Excess baggage fees
  • Personal clothing or gear
  • Alcoholic drinks and personal snacks
  • Hotels before and after trip
  • Recommended Travel/trip cancelation insurance
  • Guide/ Staff gratuity


  • UIAA/Ce approved climbing helmet
  • UIAA/CE approved climbing harness with belay loop
  • Climbing shoes or approach should that you can climb up to 5.7 in
  • Standard “lead climbing rack” such as stoppers/nuts, SLCD’s, tri-cams, etc
  • Assorted 24″ and 48″ runners. (must have at least one 48″)
  • 10 or more non-locking carabiners
  • 3 or more HMS/Pearbiners
  • 6 or more locking carabiners. (The more the better)
  • Belay/rappel device such as the ATC Guide, Reverso, B52
  • Releasable locking belay device such as the Petzl GriGri or Trango Cinch belay devices
  • 2 prussic loops (1m of 5 mm nylon accessory cord)
  • 2 cordelettes (5 m of 7 mm nylon accessory cord
  • One 50-60m “single” rope. (9.5-10.5mm) suitable for lead climbing and top roping
  • One static or “semi static (gym line) rope 10-11 mm, 30m+ for setting up anchors and fixed lines.


  • Have a genuine interest in rock climbing and instructing novices on single pitch crags.
  • Are at least 18 years old at the time of the course.
  • Have at least 12 months prior climbing experience.
  • Are an active climber with traditional lead climbing experience (leader placing pro).
  • Have trad lead climbed a minimum of 15 graded rock climbing routes (any grade).
  • Are capable of comfortably climbing 5.8 while on a top rope.

The above pre-requisites are absolute minimums and most candidates have way in excess of the above. Without having at least this amount experience you are unlikely to play a constructive part on the course or be able to make best use of the training. If you are unsure of your skill levels we suggest hiring one of or AMGA Certified Rock Guides to evaluate and enhance your skills and experience prior to SPI Program enrollment.


Day 1:

  • Session 1: SPI and AMGA Program Overview
  • Session 2: Professionalism
  • Session 3: Equipment
  • Session 4: Knots and Hitches
  • Session 5: Belaying
  • Session 6: Protection and Anchoring
  • Session 7: Teaching

Day 2:

  • Session 8: Selecting the climbing site
  • Session 9: Site organization and group management
  • Session 10: Base managed climbing sites
  • Session 11:Assistance for the base managed climbing site
  • Session 12: Programing and risk management
  • Session 13: Protection and Anchoring
  • End of day debriefs

Day 3:

  • Session 13: Instructor Demo Lead Climb
  • Session 14: Top Managed Sites
  • Session 15: Lowering
  • Session 16: Assistance Skills – Top Managed Sites
  • Session 17: Rappelling
  • Session 18: Climbing Movement
  • Session 19: Review Sessions
  • Final Individual and Group Debriefs

Registration & Cancelation

  • Unfortunately, due to extremely high demand we have a very strict registration and cancelation policy. We can not transfer you to an other program. WE HIGHLY RECOMMEND PURCHASING TRAVEL INSURANCE! We recommend the TravelEx Insurance Travel Select plan with the Adventurer Plus Pak upgrade.
  • To reserve your spot on a domestic climbing or skiing program please fill out the enclosed application and return it to us along witha 50% deposit if applying more than 60 days out. If your trip/ course starts in less than 60 days please submit full payment.
  • Program fees are non-transferable. If notice of cancellation is given in writing at least 60 days prior to the trip start date, you will be refunded your fulldeposit except for a $50 processing fee.
  • If notice of cancellation is given in writing within 59 – 30 days prior to the trip start date, a cancellation fee equal to the deposit amount will be charged. If notice of cancellation is given in writing less than 30 days prior to the trip start date, a cancellation fee equal to 100% of the program fee will be charged.

All AMGA SPI programs will be run on a private and custom basis.  Please inquire for details.


3 days


Moab, UT
Durango, CO


KMG courses: $495
KMG assessments: $350

Student to Instructor Ratio:

Up to 6:1 students per one instructor ratio


Beginner to expert

To book call
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