Alpine Climbing with Kling Mountain Guides
From introductory mountaineering courses, to advanced alpine ascents, Kling Mountain Guides can take you there. Rely on the expertise of guides who climb and trek around the world to take YOU into the alpine.
Mt. Bona, Alaska 16,421 ft.
May 30-June 10, 2010
$2850
Come climb a classic Alaskan Peak with Kling Mountain Guides. Our expedition of Mt. Bona takes place in America's largest national park, the Wrangell - St. Elias. This National Park, at 13.2 million acres, is located on the Canadian / American border is larger than many small countries. This magnificent park is home to highest concentration of mountains over 14,500 ft in North America. Mt. Bona the 11th tallest peak in North America at 16,421 ft sits in the heart of the park. The Wrangell St.Elias mountain range is also home to Mt Logan, the second tallest peak in North America at 19,551 ft and Mt. St.-Elias the fourth tallest peak in North America at 18,009 ft.
Mountain Bona Expedition Backgroud
The Expedition is designed for mountaineers who want to test their practical skills on a glacier at high altitudes without the time commitment of a Denali expedition. If you have climbed one of the classic volcanos of the NorthWest or are a climber with your sights on Denali, than this expedition is for you. Over the course we will cover the following topics:
- Expedition equipment and its use
- Roped glacier travel and route finding as a team
- Expedition camp building
- Expedition sled construction and use
- Crevasse rescue
- Avalanche hazard and terrain recognition
- Ascending fixed ropes
- High altitude medicine and cold injuries
Climbers will need to have basic mountaineering and backpacking skills prior to this course. An Introduction to Mountaineering Course with San Juan College, or an equivalent course, will teach you what you need to know for this trip. Please let us know if our schedule does not fit yours as private trips are available.
The Following is a sample itinerary
Day 0: Arrive in Anchorage. We will meet at the Earth Bed and Breakfast in Anchorage. This is on your own, and NOT included in the cost of the trip. You are welcome to stay where ever you like, however we recommend the Earth B & B. This is where our gear check and group meet will be. Last minute gear purchases can be made at Alaska Mountaineering and Hiking or REI. Night in Anchorage.
Day 1: Today we will rise early to begin our adventure. We will drive to Chitina to meet our bush pilot. After our final equipment check we will be flown to the lodge on on the Chitina River in a ski equipped Turbo Otter.
Day 2: Weather permitting, today we will fly to our base camp on the Klutlan Glacier at 10.500 ft. After the plane leaves we will build a expedition style camp, fully equipped with a kitchen! Once our camp is set, we will begin our training.
Day 3: Today is our first full day on the glacier and will be used as a training day. Topics to be covered will include roped glacier travel and crevasse rescue, snow school, self and team arrest, snow anchors, and mechanical hauling systems.
Day 4: Today is referred to as a “carry” and acclimatization day. We will load our packs with food, fuel and other supplies that will be used higher on the mountain. Once fully loaded we will begin the journey to our Camp 1 at 12,500 ft. At Camp 1 we will cache the equipment in the snow and head back to base camp. This helps in our climb high sleep low acclimatization schedule.
Day 5: Today is a move day. We will wake early, pack up base camp, and head back to Camp 1. At Camp 1 we will again build snow walls to protect us from the fierce Alaskan winds. If time permits, we will continue our training.
Day 6: This is another carry and acclimatization day. We will again load our packs with food, fuel, and supplies to be used higher on the mountain. Camp 2 will be established at approximately 14,200 ft. This is our high camp and located on the saddle between 16,421 ft Mt. Bona and 15,638 ft. Mt. Churchill. This camp provides an an extrodoary view of the entire southeastern portion of the park. We will be able to see the second tallest peak in North America Mt Logan at 19,850 ft and the forth tallest peak in North America Mt. St Elias at 18,008 ft. The location will also give us spectacular views of Mt. Lucania, Mt. Steele, and King Peak.
Day 7: Today we make our move to Camp 2. Once in camp we will rest and hydrate in preparation for our summit bid.
Day 8: Summit day! We will climb above Camp 3 onto the flanks of Mt. Bona. We will exchange our skis / snowshoes for crampons. Typically the snow is perfect for cramponing with hard windblown snow. Our route will take us up the East Ridge of Mt. Bona. There is no vertical climbing on this route, but our ridge to the summit can reach up to 40 degree. This is the steepest and most technical part of our ascent. From the summit we will be afforded exceptional views of Mt. Logan, Mt. St. Elias, and the entire Wrangell - St. Elias range.
Day 9: This day is built into the itinerary as an extra summit day. In the case of poor weather or further need to acclimatize we shall use this as a summit day. If we accomplished our goal of Mt. Bona’s summit on day nine, we can attempt the West Ridge of Mt. Churchill. Achieving two Alaskan summits in one trip is something to be extremely proud of! If a second summit is not in our cup of tea, we can descend to base camp and the landing strip.
Day 10: Our final day on the glacier! Today, weather permiting we will fly off the glacier and back to the lodge or Chitina.
Day 11: After driving back to Anchorage most climber like to enjoy a celebratory dinner. Our expedition has come to a close! Choose to stay one final night in AK or catch a red eye home.
Note: Remember, this itinerary is approximate. We might have to adjust it slightly according to weather, bush flight schedules, how the group is acclimatizing, and group speed and ability. One of the great things about climbing in Alaska is the long daylight hours. This provides us with ample time for training and working on our expedition camping skills.
Price Includes
- Guide fees
- All meals while on the mountain
- Group equipment (stoves, cooking fuel, technical climbing equipment, equipment, first aid kits)
Price Does Not Include
- Airfare from to Anchorage, AK
- Bush pilot fees from Chitina to glacier and back
- Shuttle from Anchorage to Chitina
- Items of personal nature
- Individual travel costs, delays, etc.
- Excess baggage fees
- Personal Clothing or gear
- Alcoholic drinks and personal snacks
- Hotels before and after tripd
- Recommended Travel/trip cancelation insurance
- Guide/ Staff gratuity
Prerequisites:
- Prior basic mountaineering experience,
- Be comfortable with self and team arrest
- Have experience with crampons
- Basic roped climbing experience.
- Be comfortable carrying a 55 lbs pack
- If you do not possess these skills or need review, we recommend doing a skills course with us in Colorado prior to your expedition. The Intro To Mountaineering course with San Juan College is a perfect precursor.
**Kling Mountain Guides operates under special use permits in the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Moab BLM, Indian Creek BLM, and Cedar Mesa Grand Gulch BLM areas. Kling Mountain Guides LLC provides services and employment regardless of ethnic or cultural heritage, religious beliefs, sexual orientation or physical handicap. Josh Kling operates as an employee of Mountain Trip, San Juan College, Fort Lewis College, and the Silverton Avalanche School.. Mountain Trip, San Juan College, Fort Lewis College, and the Silverton Avalanche School all operate under special use permits from the United States Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management in their respective operating districts.**
